Solo in Moldova: Exploring Europe's Hidden Gem
- Denisha Miles
- Oct 3, 2024
- 4 min read
Moldova really is a hidden gem, which makes me reluctant to share this country with everyone else, for fear of mass tourism. If you remember, my last solo trip was to Azerbaijan, and that was truly a horrible experience, so I was both excited and apprehensive about Moldova. I was hoping it would be a better experience, but I also didn't know what to expect.
When I arrived at Chisinau Airport, it felt kind of nice being in Europe again. It was pretty crowded, and lines were moving slowly. When it was my turn, they started questioning me and I thought OMG. Here we go AGAIN. I was staying for a week, but I only had 3 nights booked at my hostel because I didn't know what I would do after, or if I would visit another city. When I told this to the border agent, he looked so confused...as if there is no other city outside of Chisinau. He said, word for word, "You will be here for a week, but you don't know what you will do?" Yes! Exactly! I don't really travel with a plan, and I don't know why it was so difficult for him to understand. Even though I had a return ticket, it's like he didn't believe that I would leave. But maybe that was to be expected when not many people visit Moldova. Anyways, they didn't keep me nearly as long as in Azerbaijan, so for that I was grateful.
I arrived at my hostel (Amazing Ionika Hostel), dropped my bags and took a walk around. I had a walking tour booked later that afternoon, so I spent most of my time sitting in the park and people watching. At that time, it was still pretty hot and humid in Fethiye, and in Chisinau, it really felt like autumn, so it was so nice. The walking tour was great, I highly recommend them, and I always try to do one when I arrive somewhere to get an idea of the city. I visited a local restaurant for dinner, where I ate a lot of pork. Living in Turkey, pork can be hard to find (naturally), and it's expensive. So, my main goal on this trip, in terms of food, was to eat as much pork as possible. It's also worth mentioning that a glass of wine was cheaper than water!
The next day, I decided to check out the puppet theater. I didn't understand a word, but it was interesting. Afterwards, I went to the Cascade Stairs, which are stunning, and very Romeo and Juliet. I took a stroll around the lake while listening to true crime (it's called balance), and eventually made my way to Litra, a craft beer bar. I was planning to stick to the wines in Moldova, but craft beer is also very limited in Turkey. I didn't do too much on this day because I had a long tour to Transnistria the following day
Transnistria
Transnistria is a "country that is not a country". It declared independence from Moldova in 1990, but it is not internationally recognized and is a breakaway region of Moldova. It has its own government, military, and currency, but still very dependent on Russia. The tour I went on was through the hostel and it was very eye opening. Walking around was so eerie; it was a like a ghost town. The atmosphere was still very Soviet, with a bunch of grey, dull-coloured abandoned buildings, and it felt like I took a big step back in time.
We visited Bendery Fortress, a couple of monasteries, and a fair amount of monuments. One thing I noticed, is that there still seems to be a sense of pride and nostalgia for the Soviet Era. Especially in this Soviet style restaurant, where we had lunch. You can definitely visit on your own, but I'm so glad I didn't because I wouldn't have known anything about this place.
Because this was such a long tour, the following day was a cafe hopping and reading day. I decided to spend the whole week Chisinau, so that I had time to relax and prepare for wine tastings!
The first wine cellar we visited was Cricova. Cricova is the 2nd largest wine cellar in Moldova, and one of the most popular ones tourists to visit. To be honest I wasn't too interested in this one. I had watched a couple of videos previously, and it seemed to be expensive (220 Moldovan Leu, with 1 tasting) and overrated. But it was included in the tour, so I didn't really have a choice. The coolest thing about this winery was riding the golf cart in the underground tunnels. If you decide to visit, don't forget to bring a jacket! It's chilly down there. If you have a car, or you are in a group of friends, I think the smaller, family owned wine cellars are more interesting (and cheaper).
The second wine cellar we visited was Branesti. This is the one I actually wanted to go to, but without a car it's a little difficult (hence, the tour). It was so dark in this cellar, it reminded me of Dracula, but the woman that showed us around was so kind and enthusiastic. She didn't speak any English so the owner of the hostel was our translator/tour guide. I think we tasted about 9 wines for $15. I ended up buying 2 bottles of the chardonnay, which was so good! I really only wanted one, but it came in a 1.5L bottle. I highly recommend this wine cellar. It seemed more authentic and less touristy than Cricova.
Along the way, we also visited 2 monasteries. Orheiul Veichi and Curchi Monastery. They are both beautiful in their own way. Again, I believe there is public transportation to these monasteries, but I don't think the buses run that often.
One week in Chisinau is probably too much to be honest, 3-4 days would be enough. But I wanted to take my time, so I spent the rest of the week just hanging out in the park, or in cafes, and I spent one afternoon in the library. But overall, I really enjoyed Chisinau. It was not as cheap as I thought, but the country as a whole was a pleasant surprise. I definitely would like to come back and explore more of Moldova. I hope until then, it remains unspoiled!
Rating: 7.5/10
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